Cape to cape and further

Richard is on the road for his major trip.

Destination: all the way..........


Ghana and finally the sea again.

Week 07 - 08, monday 10 February 2014 - sunday 23 February  2014

Getting into Ghana can be a problem since I didn’t receive my Carnet the Passage from Holland. Somehow it got lost between my sisters address and the address of a friend who came to Bamako. I decided back in Bamako that I would give it a try to enter without a Carnet de Passage. More travelers had done it and they where even able to go all the way round Africa without a Carnet de Passage.

After my visit at the traditional painted houses in Tiebele, I take of around 10.00am. Usually I leave earlier but for some reason or another I’m not able to speed up. On the other hand I’m not planning to ride that much today anyway. To get to the border I have to drive the 30km hard piste back to the main-road into Po,than drive another 30km before I can try my luck at the border. Getting out of Burkina Faso is not a problem since I’ve been there only 5 days. They stamp my passport and then I face the border-post of Paga in Ghana. When I arrive everybody is very helpful and show me the places where I have to go to get my passport stamped and to get a Laissez-Passer. The warning of paying bribes to the police officers are far over the top and I get all the help from them. The only fee I have to pay is for the Laissez-Passer. The price is fix and is 36 GHS. During a border crossing I always try to be very enthusiastic about the new country and ask them many questions to get the fixation off the official paperwork. Also here I play to be very enthusiastic to see Elephants, Crocodiles and whatever animals there are in Ghana. I also tell them I’m very happy to be back in an English speaking country after traveling in so many French speaking countries. There reaction is very funny and they say that English is so much easier than the French language. After 30 minutes everything is arranged and they wish me a safe journey and I’m ready to go. Back at the motorbike I see that someone have looked in my tank-bag, but nothing taken. Since a couple of weeks the zippers of the tank-bag are broken, so I moved the valuables into the side-boxes. Now there is only stuff in the tank-bag like toothbrush, shower-gel, food and non valuables and it turns out they are not interested in that at all. I get on my motorbike and head towards the south. The first big city I have to past is Tamale, and while I’m not planning to stay there I have to stop to get money from an ATM. Tamale is the biggest city in the northern part of Ghana and I’m glad that I only have to stop for money. During the ride I pass some toll booths but I can pass without paying anything. One of the advantage of traveling on a motorbike in Western Africa.. I continue the ride and stop 20 km south and find a nice place for bush-camping. The last night in Tiebele wasn’t really quiet and therefor I was glad to do bush-camping again and that gave me a good sleep. I wake up with new energy pack the bike and before 08.00 I’m on the road. The day start sunny and the temperature rise till 40 degrees, since Israel I didn’t drive in such a heat anymore and I notice that it drains out the energy from my body. This day I feel that I need a break, I’m already driving the motorbike for 7 days in a row and that makes me tired. During the ride south the sky get more cloudy and at the end of a long day I decide to take a cheap room. I find one at a gas-station white two girls working. First I take a shower and with a fresh look I go down to see if I can buy a beer. I have to buy the beer next door and share my beer with the girls. During the drink they are inviting them self to my room, which offer I politely refuse. I like black girls but if the do this by every white man passing by I don’t want to think about diseases. Even condoms are not 100% sure and so I let the generous offer down. The next morning I see that it has been raining last night and therefor glad that I have taken a room. I decide to spend a bit more money at the girls and top of my fuel tank. With 33 liters onboard I’m good for 650 kilometers and that should bring me down do the coast.

Halfway down there are clouds coming in quiet quickly and before I know I’m in the middle of a heavy rain-shower. I have to find shelter because I’m soaked in a minute and the rain comes down hard, it even hurts my face. I see a gas-station and pull over, when I get of the motorbike I notice that the paint of my windscreen did came of. Since it is still warm and hot I dry quiet quickly and continue my ride south, but within the hour I hit another rain-shower and have to shelter again. The first time since months that I experience rain again and I get strait away the heavy ones. Finally I’m hitting the coast at Cape-Coast and decide to go west to visit Dixcove. Ruud had told me that there would be a nice castle to visit and that it would not be a touristic place. I took another one and a half hour before I reached the exit to Dixcove and Busua. Both places are located at the coast and since there is no place to stay in Dixcove, I go to Busua. Busua is only 5 kilometers away from Dixcove and I arrive in a little cosy village. I end up at a five star resort and turn around. When I look at my GPS someone ask me what I looking for. “I’m looking for a cheap place where I can sleep in my tent.” I turns out that I’m standing right in front of Alaska Beach camp, and that’s exactly the place I’m looking for. I enter the place and see that I’m not the only one, there is also an old Toyota Land-Cruiser. The owners are not there at the moment so I decide to setup my tent first. When I’m busy the owners of the Land-Cruiser passing by and it turns out to be a German-Swedish couple, Fabian and Jasmine. We having a nice chat and we planning to have dinner together later the day. Fabian and Jasmine are planning to ride the west coast all the way down to South-Africa. It’s nice to exchange stories with other travelers and we have a great evening together. The next morning I wake up early and take a swim in the sea. Finally after such a long time in the dessert and heat of Western-Africa I’m back in the sea. I have to say that now I’m at the coast again that I have missed the water and diving. Today is a relax day because yesterday I had a little incident with the motorbike. I was tired and had to stop more often than normal and during the last stop I stopped at the side of the road. Usually I always check of the motorbike stay stable on it’s side-stand, but because I was tired I forgot to check and when I stepped of the bike the felt. I was able to let it go down by holding on the handle, but it was clearly for me that I needed a rest. Ride eight days in a row in such a heat is to much for me. Busua is known for it surfing and therefor there are many surfers around. It reminds me a bit of the atmosphere in Dahab. Also today we are going out for dinner with the three of us, since the food is so cheap that you can’t cook for it yourself. The next morning I have problems with diarrhea and have to visit the toilet many times and therefor I stay another day at the campground. Fabian and Jasmine heading towards Cape coast and we agree that we would meet in Accra at Ryan Iris Pub later the week. The next couple of days my diarrhea continues and I take me a whole week to get better. During this week I’m not able to eat a lot and I glad to eat just bread and rice. On sunday I head towards Accra and when I arrive at Ryan Iris Pub, it turns out that it is not longer a place to put up a tent. The next option is 20 km from Accra, Big Milly’s Backyard in Kokrobite. During the ride to Kokrobite I see Fabian and Jasmine and stop for a little chat. They are also heading to Big Milly’s Backyard. In the end there is also another German couple Marc and Dorothy with a Land-rover. We all here near Accra for some visa. I want to apply for the Togo, benin and Angola visa. During the visits in Accra I also find a supermarket and buy some extra’s like chips and cookies. I take us the entire week to get all three visas and we have lot’s of fun ad the campground. We cook almost every night and we are drinking Beer wine and lots of gin tonic. It’s nice to hangout with some people for a while and be able to speak English together. We are all heading down so we exchange all our knowledge and tips we have. I leave for Togo as soon as I have the last visa while the others stay a bit longer because of some mechanical problems with there cars. The last thing I like to see the Wli waterfall in the east of Ghana. The road start out nice and tarmac, but later on it turns in to an hard piste and it become even worse than that. Lucky I got lots of experience in off-road riding during this so it’s not a problem at all. I arrive late in the afternoon and pitch up my tent at a campground owned by a German couple. For dinner I go into the little village and find myself only a bread and eat this with a can of mackerel at the campground. At the campground they serve only limited food as well but for ridicules prices. After an last noisy night in Kokrobite I have here a complete quiet night with another beautiful sky full of starts. The next morning I wake up not real early and not real late, I make myself a cup of coffee and later I go for a hike to see the waterfall. After a bit less than an hour walk I arrive at the falls and take a swim. During the hike I see many different butterflies and other animals and take my time to take many photo’s.  The water is not really deep but you can walk all the way till under the waterfall. It’s really amazing how windy it is as you approach the waterfall. The fall is about 50 meters high and it’s so funny to stand under the water. The water falls on my body like a torture and the force blows me almost of my feet. I hang out at the waterfall and got in contact with some other tourists and after 2 hours I head back to the campground. Here I read some and later I start raining and I have to get myself a shelter to stay dry. During my last night in Ghana it start raining and it become a real rain shower. I wonder how the road will be which I like to take to get into Togo since it is an off-road track, but that’s something for the next update

Termite hills all over Ghana.
Got soaked in Ghana heading south.
Finally the sea again.
The streets of Busua.
Beach time in Busua.
Castle of Dixcove.
Lizards all over the campground.
In kokrobite with the others.
During the hike towards the waterfall.

The Wli waterfall in the east of Ghana near Togo.

Saw many butterflies during the hike.
And this fellow.

Countries I have visited: